Friday, March 27, 2009

Good Morning Vietnam!

I had high hopes for Vietnam (sometimes spelt Viet Nam...) It was one of the ports that truly made me choose SAS and after spending just 5 days here, I can tell you it met and surpassed every expectation I had. I spent the first day wandering the city of Ho Chi Minh, formerly Siagon, getting measured for handmade dresses, finding wonderful souvenirs for my family and friends and dodging the intense markets whenever possible. With everything being just one or two US dollars, it was easy to support the Vietnam economy.

Day two Abby and I set out for our history lesson. We left the ship at 7:00am and drove two hours to explore the Cu Chi Tunnels. The area had mock up tool making, cooking, housing and other various sites that resembled what it looked like during the war. We saw the now over grown locations of where bombs had exploded and destroyed both the land and people. It was hard to believe it wasn’t that long ago that soldiers were crawling in and out of the tunnels trying to save themselves. They were so clever; they stole American soldier soap so that their smell wouldn’t appear foreign and only cooked in the morning when the fog was low so that smoke wouldn’t linger over the tunnels. We had the chance to crawl through one of the tunnels- the first level because as you got lower they were so small that not even our legs could fit. We were crawling and hunched over just to make it through the winding, narrow path. After we left the tunnels, Abby and I took a motorcycle ride to the War Remnants Museum on the other side of Ho Chi Minh. It was blazing, boiling hot, the humidity reached far beyond anything I have ever experience but as I walked through the museum and read disappointing quotes and viewed the horrifying images, my body got the chills. To be honest, I never knew much about the Vietnam War it was interesting to learn about it from the other side. I can’t imagine the protests that took place back in the states or the people that came to Vietnam to fight. It left me feeling out of place and worried about what the future generations will do about the current situation the US is in.

On our third day, Abby and I left around 6:30am for our SAS trip to Cat Tien National Park, just a 5 hour bus ride away. We took a small boat across the Dong Nai River and into the park headquarters. Our accommodations were a lot like camping and reminded me of being up at the shack in Montana. There was no warm water, our mattresses were concrete, the electricity only turned on during certain portions of the day and the bugs and animals were not shy to pop out at any given time. On our first day, we took a ride through the park looking at the lush vegetation from our open roofed truck. We took a small boat back along the river and saw various birds and learned about the flora and fauna in the area. Riding in the boat brought me instantly to memories of summertime out on Lexi’s boat with her family. Just cruising in the open water, the air so hot you can’t breathe but really getting away from it all. A few of us lay in wicker hammocks and listened to the obnoxiously loud yet calming noises of the wildlife close by. By dusk, we were fortunate to experience a few rain showers and we all danced in the paths celebrating the cool off we were dying for. After dinner, we took another ride out into the park to view the wild deer, boar and nocturnal animals. I couldn’t keep my eyes off the stars- it was so clear and it seemed every star in the galaxy was just popping out. Not even the feasting mosquitoes could ruin the perfect atmosphere.

We spent the next day hiking throughout the rain forest and into Crocodile Lake. Since it had rained a little, we were worried about the leaches so we had to wear these big, sock-like protectors over our legs and rub sticky ointment over them. On our hike, our guide Trong showed us the various species that rest inside and we were surrounded by the insect noises and fluttering of butterflies. The 10K hike seemed to go by fast since it was so hot- my mind just went into a daze and I couldn’t even feel my legs moving. By the time we reached the lake, our clothes were drenched in sweat but we were greeted with a freshly-cooked Vietnamese meal that served the best pineapple I’ve ever had. We sat on the floor of the wooden deck that over looked the lake and enjoyed veggies, noodles, lots of tofu and hot tea. Our hike back seemed quicker yet hotter- the humidity reached 86% and the temperature was over 100*F. I just lost myself in memories of hiking in Montana or the smells of a humid night on Noni and Papa’s deck in Tapatio. I just pictured myself there and in my heated daze it actually felt like I was. We returned to the headquarters and chugged water to replenish ourselves.

On our last day, we started the morning off with a hike into the bamboo thickets to Ben Cu rapids. Again memories of Montana filled my mind- just sitting by the river listening to the rustling sound and losing yourself in complete peace. On our hike back, we stopped beneath the trees where locals were cutting and working with the bamboo. I stood in awe just admiring their hand work; they worked like machines and their hands had such a consistent, constant flow. It was beautiful and reminded me how much we can do just with our hands. Before lunch, we had free time to roam the park. I stumbled upon a bear rehabilitation area- there were 19 bears that had been rescued and were being training to be put back into the wild. Some of the bears had been so thrown out of nature that they were afraid of fish. I met a Scottish woman who had just moved there in January to volunteer and help assist the bears. She was honored the park had asked her to stay longer as the bears worked towards being released. I hope that when I’m older I have that drive and that passion for something. That I can just pick up my life, move, volunteer and do something for the good of the world. Whether it’s with bears, humans, nature or what- I just hope I’m open for all that comes my way.

We arrived back into Ho Chi Minh City by dusk and had a BBQ dinner on the ship (yes hotdogs!) We had the night free and didn’t set sail until early this morning. Sailing through the Siagon River is unlike anything I’ve seen; it is extremely narrow and there are rice mounds, small boats, big boats and just people paddling though. They waved as our huge MV Explorer made wakes and pushed through to head back out into the South China Sea.

Vietnam was definitely one of my favorite ports that we have visited- I loved being out in the wild even though it was deathly hot and I didn’t shower for 3 days… I ate the best food, traveled lightly and experienced everything that came my way. Although it was dangerous, driving through the city on the back of a motorcycle flying through the busy streets of Ho Chi Minh was a blast- my hair flew in the wind and I felt like I was absorbing it all in. It was emotional visiting the war cites and important to keep in mind how both American and Vietnamese were being portrayed but it has struck my curiosity to keep learning- similar to Thailand.

Someone told me recently that they can tell I’m growing up. It was the best compliment I’ve gotten in a long time and I actually agree with him. Somewhere between this voyage once described as a cruise and the academics once considered minimal- I’m actually growing up and changing more than I ever thought.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Take Me Away Thailand

This is definitely a country I want to return to- Thailand, at first, was not what I expected. Just coming from India, I was shocked at how developed and modern it is. I spent the first day in Pattaya at an elephant village. We rode bareback and that was another shocking experience- we sat on their heads and held on to whatever spare skin we could. They have stubbly hair on the heads, their trucks are sticky like honey but are the sweetest animals. I felt bad stepping and pulling on their ears as I climbed on top but tried to just go along with it and enjoy the awkward experience.

Courtney and I went on a SAS trip to visit the River Kwai, Ayuthaya and Bangkok for 4 days. With Billy Idol’s “We Didn’t Start the Fire” stuck in my head, we ventured by an old fashioned train into central Thailand. Filled with crops, green grass, straw huts and flowing rivers- this was the Thailand I had pictured. The rivers, both the large and small Kwai, were gorgeous. We rode in canoes down an unreal setting with calm waters, small, straw house boats, the mountains in the foreground and clear blue skies above us. During the 4 days, I had never been as hot in my life. It was 100* and 68% humidity. I didn’t even know that was possible- the air was still and drenched our clothes in sweat but regardless it was phenomenal.

We visited WWII sites like the Cemetery of the Allied Prisoners, JEATH Museum and all along the Death Railway. Realizing how little I actually know about our historical past was disappointing but I was fascinated by everything we saw and definitely want to keep learning. We went to Thai temples where past Queens have stayed or where live peace offerings were occurring. We climbed to the tops of brick remains from temples and stood next to a variety of Buddhas including the “Reclining Buddha.” The religion is extremely prominent and so much respect is constantly paid to the Buddha.

Bangkok was busting with traffic, markets, people and life. Supposedly it’s the city with the worse traffic in the world and I could not agree more. We walked through the streets with vendors selling food that looked absolutely delicious but promised an upset stomach so we passed. We had two massages during our visit: the first was a traditional Thai that basically kneaded out every muscle in my body and left me sore and unable to walk for the rest of the night. The next night I tried a more relaxed massage with oil and it just happened to be the best thing I’ve ever done (and was so cheap I felt bad.) Maybe it’s because my bruises from the previous massage were forming or my body was tired from the heat, the massage was like dying for an hour and being in complete Thailand heaven. It’s something you must do when venturing to this amazing country.

On our last day in Bangkok, we met up with Abby and Anna who had been in Phuket for the past few days. The four of us stayed in an unbelievably nice hotel that overlooked the river that runs through Bangkok. We met up with Kelly later that evening because her mom and sister had flown in for part of the parent’s visit. Kelly’s mom was extremely kind and took us to a fabulous meal at Bennihana where I think we ate the most we have since leaving the US. I had wonderful tofu, miso soup, fresh salad, veggies, spinach and I even took a bite of Anna’s shrimp. We took a small boat down the river after dinner back to our hotel. From there we had an interesting taste of Thailand nightlife- very different from anything I’ve seen and the best way to describe it might be what I imagine Vegas to be like…

Overall Thailand was absolutely amazing. I loved every second of if; I love seeing the country side and getting a historical sense but also venturing to the city and seeing the booming culture. The food reminded me of our favorite restaurant Anita’s Kitchen in San Rafael where we used to celebrate every birthday or family gathering. The people are so kind and caring- they love their country. I felt so safe here and that I didn’t have to worry about anything. I can’t wait to come back and visit more parts of the country- I’d love to see Northern Thailand and Phuket. And next time I come back I can only hope my family will be with me to enjoy it all.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Incredible India

Where to begin writing about a country that has flipped my life upside down? Are there even words? Probably- but these days words aren’t doing these experiences and emotions any justice. Yet that’s the challenge of a writer- to find the words we thought were impossible to describe the feelings we thought were unexplainable.

India came at the point in the voyage where I’m yearning for some family love. Where I’m desperately missing the Valentinos and my extended family that stretches from a book company in San Francisco to the land of Boulder to deep in the heart of Texas. I know they never said it would be easy to go without communication but they also never said it would feel like I was suffocating without them.

So I entered India with my heart on the rocks; gave myself the “I’m traveling the world, being independent, obtaining self confidence through my growth (i.e. read the last blog…)” speech. I got off the ship in Chennai and went on an independent trip with 80 other students; thought we would save money and experience the magical land of India on our own. You have no idea how hard it is to travel in a group of 80 and not know anyone and be in a country where you can’t read 50% of the signs and are constantly in fear of being robbed, eaten by malaria, dying from traveler’s diarrhea or simply being run over by a rickshaw taxi. But somewhere in the chaos, somewhere in making new friends and somewhere in traveling across and throughout the country India overtook me.

In 5 days, we traveled to Dehli, Agra, Jaipur and back to Chennia. From 6 hour plane rides to 7 hour bus rides we got to see the insides and outs. We toured forts, ate straight up authentic Indian cuisine, stayed in run-down probably highly dangerous hotels, fought off street vendors, bought ravishing jewelry and scarves from others, sat abroad an elephant as we climbed a mountain, rode in a rickshaw taxi for 45 minutes just to find a Pizza Hut, experienced the cities prepare for the Elephant Festival so we danced and had multi colored dust paint thrown everywhere, and of course stood in awe as we watched the sunrise in front of the Taj Mahal. Chaos is the best way to describe it all; no sleep, dangerous food, constant honking of car horns and wondering how people drive and don’t cause multiple accidents, dodging taxis, bicycles, motorcycles, cattle and busses just to cross the street and just trying to soak it all in- soak in the foreign smells, tastes and lifestyles.

Clearly the Taj deserves an explanation and praise because I honestly feel like its lacking some. I researched the Taj before going- discovered the eternal love Jahan felt for Mumtaz Mahal and seriously wished someone loved me enough to create a perfectly symmetrical, detailed, smooth painting like shrine for me. You can’t help but feel closer to eternal love as you walk through the gates that read “O Soul, thou art at rest returning to the Lord at Peace with him, and He at peace with you.” The photographs of the Taj look phenomenal but wait till you see it with your own eyes and not some Kodak lens. Every piece, every structure, every line was created carefully with Mumtaz in mind. I said the Taj deserves praise because the saddest part of the day was watching how disrespectful some visitors were. It clearly says no photography yet some people were flashing away at the tombs and marble- why do we need pictures of everything? In every mosque we visited, out of respect we took our shoes off but at the Taj we just covered them with thin linen. Something so beautiful and powerful and such a wonder and people were overlooking the historical magic that was created. It deserves a ‘7 wonder of the world’ title and I hope that when you go to see it, you embrace it like I did and respect its value and virtue.

Have you seen Slumdog Millionaire? See it. Now. And then continue reading. The movie does an amazing depiction of India. The slums are heartbreaking; the streets are covered with everything from bacteria infested feces to cattle to plastic to children begging for food and rupee. We saw children that had tumors on the backs of the heads, adults that were crawling or rolling on the ground because they didn’t have legs/arms/ anything. Babies crying out for food, mother are holding their hands for donations and everything inside me began to break. How does this world exist simultaneously as the rest of the world is bumping and booming? How are the other ‘third world countries’ (not sure what the politically correct way of saying that is these days) viewed as being hopeful and on the rise out of poverty but India seems to be staying the same? We were overwhelmed- do you give as much rupee as you can to everyone you see? Do you not eat so the woman and her baby on the street can? I still don’t have the answers.

Before arriving in India, my heart was on the verge of crashing. Showing signs of homesickness, I was fearing going off on this independent trip and being able to enjoy it all while secretly my mind was elsewhere. My heart broke all together at first- how could it not? But I just had to let myself go and let it all happen otherwise I think you would go insane. Being back on the ship and reflecting with everyone else is making a lot more sense and it’s nice to see we are not alone. Everyone is asking the same questions and feeling the same overwhelming emotions but I guess that’s what happens as you travel to unknown areas.

We are onto Singapore for refueling and Thailand on Sunday morning. I’m now going places I’ve only dreamed of and the voyage seems to be taking a new turn and I like it. I still miss you all at home and if you’re ever feeling adventurous… we can receive cards and packages (I thought it was too risky so I never gave out the info but now that everyone keeps getting mail at ports I regret spreading that information…) If you go to semesteratsea.org and under the “this voyage” tab there’s a section on keeping in touch and says where and when to send a note. Not that I’m expecting anything just thought I’d throw that information out :)

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Mauritius- French for Reflections

We only spent 12 hours on the island of Mauritius and I think rather than blog about my ‘Spring Break in February,’ I thought I’d take the time to write about all the changes I’m experiencing.

Semester At Sea is often described as a big party, people call it kindergarten at sea or a cruise but they always say it will change your life. It will change everything you know and even yourself. We are only a month and a half deep and I can already feel my life alternating.

I used to pass on lot of opportunities; I’m very good at making excuses even if it’s something I kind of want to do. I often say I’m too tired, too busy with school or that I have something better to do with my time. But as I travel the world, I am clearly seeing the possibilities are beyond endless. We find ourselves saying “you’re only in Namibia once!” or “When in South Africa…” or other clichés that serve as excuses to do something. But why don’t those apply in my normal life back on land? Why do I constantly feel like I’ll always have another chance to try something when the opportunity is knocking?

Boulder used to feel far away from home. I thought I had made a big jump by going out of state to college; I was becoming an individual and really independent. But I could still call home anytime I wanted and if anything ever happened, there were hundreds of people to help or assist me. Now, being currently 13.5 hours (yes we moved ½ of an hour during a time change…) I have never felt more independent and free in my life. Sometime it’s scary; sometimes I want nothing more than to call my parents, siblings, family and friends and just hear their voices. I want to tell them everything that is going on in my life- but I can’t. One of my New Year resolutions was to grow more by myself- not to call Keeley every time my world crashed or my dad every time I hit a bump in the road. Fortunately there haven’t been any crises but in a weak moment or strong, I can’t rely on anyone but myself and the passengers of the MV Explorer. I finally feel like a big girl and that maybe, just maybe I’m becoming a real adult.

We had the Sea Olympics yesterday- each deck is divided into 10 seas and we had an all day competition of relays, races, games and tournaments. I’m in the Red Sea- we were decked out in our color, chanted our home made cheers and even wore war paint during opening ceremonies. Each sea played hard and worked a team- I’ve never seen so much spirit, energy, passion and fun- and that’s saying a lot since I’m in the Greek System at school. Somehow I signed up for the synchronized swimming team- I don’t even know how to swim. I taught myself in our Bakersfield backyard and I’m beyond nervous to become lifeguard certified this summer. But I did it- I even helped choreograph our routine and in the final competition of the day, I danced, swam and cheered (and in a bathing suit) for my team. We won 3rd place and that score brought us to win 2nd place in the Sea Olympics. Of course I was scared and nervous but I didn’t let that stop me. I just did it and I will remember that, my team and the courage I found for the rest of my life. It was one of those “why not?” moments- I didn’t let my other friends, who were too scared/embarrassed to stand out, hold me back.

That’s been another big growing step- I came abroad knowing over 20 students from CU and with some of my closest friends. I’ve become closer to them but I’ve also branched out and taken different paths. I’ve taken chances in meeting new people and even finding a boy that is completely different from anyone I’ve ever been interested in. He inspires me to be adventurous and to not hold back, to just be myself and live spontaneously. It’s nice to find someone who proves the rest wrong.

As Keeley knows, I used to think the world was flat. Beyond America, I thought everywhere was so foreign and different. I thought the grass was a different shade of green, the language used obscure syntax, and that the people moved on their own biological clock. How naïve. I’m really starting to see that essentially we are all the same and I mean that in a good way. I love seeing how we are all just humans living here on Earth but have created and adapted to our own ways of living. It’s amazing that you cross an ocean and you’re expected to be in a new world but really it’s just a different style of living. We come into ports and leave- we just get our feet wet and a small taste of what life is like on land. This is cheesy to say but really it makes me wonder why we just can’t all live peacefully? Rather than looking at the differences as something negative or as one being more advantageous why can’t we see that really we are all same? I really can’t describe it and there are no words that give this realization enough credit.

These epiphanies are occurring rapidly. I find them stargazing at night, having conversations with locals, meeting students from all America who saw something special in the SAS program, and in the few quiet moments I have with myself. They may seem small and minimal but they are changing me in more ways than I ever imagined. I can’t remember a time in my life where my feet have been so free- a time where my soul is so open to everything and anything, where I can do so many things and not have to worry, where I can take care of myself and where I can just truly be me.

I was always told Semester At Sea would change me. I already feel like I’ve made life changing transformations and I’m anxious to keep learning, to keep traveling, and to keep smiling as I continue this once in a lifetime journey.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

This Is Africa

South Africa has taken quiet the toll on my wallet and my life but my adventures here were well worth every extreme moment. Cape Town was a vacation and very different from previous African ports we’ve visited. Rather than enriching myself in rural culture, South Africa was modern filled with clubs, shopping, tourists sights and delicious food.

Rumor held that coming into V&A (Victoria & Alfred) port would be our most luxurious arrival and so Heidi, Peter, Gaylen and I attempted to rough it out and sleep on the deck. By 3am we were pushed inside by intense winds, pea soup fog and a wet cold front. By 6am we were back outside and waited another two hours before being greeted by the waterfront.

When the ship was finally cleared, we walked right off and into copious amounts of shopping, seafood, and music. We enjoyed a nice seafood lunch and headed back to the ship to catch our city orientation. The CU girls and I took the 4 hour SAS tour visiting the Natural History Museum, Botanical Gardens, Castle of Good Hope and had tea and scones at a local restaurant under the trees. The Gardens were my favorite- we walked in and out of them standing under the arching trees and admiring all the locals sleeping on benches and under trees- here whenever someone is tired they just sleep out in the open sun. Later that night we went into Long Street- the infamous home of Cape Town nightlife. We started our night off at the top of a Cuban restaurant that had a bar inside a library. After sitting with books and comfy couches, we met our dinner reservation at Mama Africa- known where one can try any type of African cuisine. Greeted by friends from CU who are studying in SA, we enjoyed live music and a window view of the city bumping outside. When we finally ordered, I split the African Platter with Gaylen (she goes to CU and we never knew each other pre-SAS but now she has become one of my closest friends) anyway we were served crocodile, springbok, sausage, ostrich and kudu. Crocodile was my favorite but by the end of the meal, my face had turned white and somewhere in my protein overload and massive amounts of eating meat, I spent the rest of the night feeling extremely ill. (and it’s safe to say I don’t miss eating meat and won’t be eating it again…)

Somewhere between visiting with friends and enjoying our first night in Cape Town sleep became an unknown word and before I knew it I was off on my trip at 4:30am. I did an independent trip with 60 other SAS students to go bungy jumping and shark diving 8 hours away. I left the CU girls and any of my friends behind and branched out to do the extreme. We arrived at the Bloukrans Bridge by noon and went face to face with the world’s highest bungy jump at 750 feet. I was in the first group to go- we walked out over the wooden, open, wobbly bridge and looked down at a ravine filled with rocks, trees and a river leading west. One by one the 20 of us in the first group were strapped in and led over the ledge. Each time we cheered for everyone just as loud as the last and encouraged the ones who were suddenly too nervous to jump. Finally my turn arrived and my legs were shaking. I had done a bungy jump before but only from 200 feet and I was strapped to Abby. This time it was me and only me. The crew carry you up to the edge because your legs are strapped together- with my toes curled over the edge I looked down and wondered what the hell was I doing but with a countdown from five, one came quickly so I stretched out my arms, bent my legs and jumped into the open. Apparently I screamed the loudest but it wasn’t screams of fear but rather excitement. Dropping 100 feet a second planted the biggest smile on my face and adrenalin raced through my body as I bounced and dangled above the river. It was an unbelievable, indescribable feeling. We spent the rest of the day cheering on the next groups and watching from the pub below. We stayed in little cabins out at the bridge and had a fun night of homemade pizza, Hunters dry cider and playing endless games of ‘zumy zumy’- a game we taught the crew and staff of the pub.

4:30am rolled around quickly and we were up and off to our next extreme adventure: shark diving in Kleinbaai. We took the rough ride out to the open waters and yet again I was in the first group to dive. Four of us girls got in our diving gear and were immersed in a small, bar cage where we scrounged up and told do not under any circumstances touch the metal bars. There was styrofoam around some of the edges but had huge teeth marks from previous great white shark attacks. Suddenly I was petrified but it was too late now. The skipper and his crew tossed out the bait and even poured fish guts on us (disgusting!) and before we knew it a Great White was right in front of the cage, which was impressive since February is not shark diving season. We ended up seeing two different sharks each about 7 feet long- one whipped right past the right side of the cage exactly where I was. I can’t remember the last time I was that scarred but it was definitely an experience to remember.

We arrived back into Cape Town by sunset and I met up with Anna and Courtney (two girls from Theta at CU). I introduced them to my new friends and we all headed to dinner at the pier. More seafood and the famous fishbowls later, we went out downtown to Tiger Tiger where they played the American music we had been missing. Classic techno hits and the I-tunes top 10 were played throughout the club. We met locals, SAS kids and danced into the night.

Now running on just leftover adrenalin and excitement to explore, a few of my friends and I spent the next day at the pier and in town shopping and experiencing Cape Town. We went to the Green Market where we bargained for authentic jewelry and art work for souvenirs. We sat and talked to the vendors and heard their life stories- how the families all work together and how each painting, sculpture was made. I bought a beautiful zebra painting (my favorite animal!) that now hangs in my cabin but will for sure be heading back to Boulder for my new house.

By dusk, we returned to get dressed up for a nice dinner at Moyo- a famous Cape Town restaurant nuzzled in the wine lands where you can actually sit in the trees to eat, have your face painted and watch authentic African dance while you consume the all you can eat endless meat, veggies and African cuisine. With a reservation of over 20, we weren’t able to fit in a tree but we dined over local wine and made multiple trips to the buffet bar. For our last night in Cape Town, we went to another club downtown, Hemisphere- set at the 16th floor of a business building, the club over looked Cape Town and offered more techno and dancing. We met more locals and students studying abroad- even students studying from Ireland and Holland who were doing a 6 month internship in Cape Town. I don’t know if I would last 6 months in the fast paced, wild city.

For our last day, we went up to Table Mountain, the picturesque image of Cape Town. The tablecloth (or just fog cloud) wasn’t on and we could see the entire city rest below us. We went back to the Green Market, walked more around town and the pier and did a little shopping. Sadly I broke my camera but fortunately I was able to save all my pictures and buy a new one in one of the malls. Before embarking on the ship, I got my first hot dog (a food I had been craving ever since I became a vegetarian) and it was just a delicious as I remembered but yet again left me not feeling too hot. We all sat on the pier, listened to more live music and sadly boarded the ship.

Due to high winds, we were kept at port until early this morning and now will go around the Cape of Good Hope in pure daylight. We have our first big global studies exam tomorrow (yes hard to believe this is actually school…) so today we are all studying and yet still trying to get some sleep after our 5 day vacation in South Africa. Cape Town is the city that doesn’t sleep- Las Vegas, New York, Spain- they have nothing on this fabulous, ravishing city.

Monday, February 16, 2009

Namibia- The Unknown Wonder

When our voyage was rerouted in November, I had never heard of Namibia- where was it? Is it an island? I don’t even think I could pronounce it. Today, after spending an enriching three days in this new born nation, I can say it is by far my favorite country I’ve been to in Africa and one of my favorites in general.

Namibia gained independence just in 1994 and is quiet, unknown and still has a large influence of Germany. I feel like I know more about Namibia than America at this point- everyone I met had new information to spread and more patriotism and praise for their country.

Heidi (my roommate), Peter (roommate’s brother) and I left Walvis Bay on Valentines Day with an open mind, 2 backpacks and a tent just in case we decided to camp. We walked into town and got a taxi to Swakopmund, a highly Germanized town just 35k away. The town was, like most of the country, silent. Namibia is about the size of Texas and Oklahoma combined but has a population of only 2 million. The streets are empty, the sun roars down and we felt like we were walking in a made up town and resembled a mini putput golf course. After taking a quick nap on the beach, we wandered to Dunes Backpackers- the first hostel we found. We got a dorm room with two German women and three men working on youth ministries who were from Namibia, the UK and South Africa. Steven, the South African, joined us as we began searching the town for dinner. Semester at Sea kids tend to take over and of course we were everywhere to be found. After an hour of looking for the perfect restaurant, we stopped at a seafood shack.

We celebrated Valentines Day with red wine and everyone ordered seafood- Peter got oysters, prawns and calamari and after being persuaded I had my first break of the vegetarian lifestyle. (Yes dad you can laugh and say I told you so). Later, we went out dancing at the local bar which was filled with Semester At Sea kids but I was fortunate enough to find Paulie- a Namibian filled with questions, answers and inspiration. Paulie knew everything about San Francisco, Boulder, the entire US and had never been there. We talked about everything from our different cultures to the stereotypes of both whites and blacks in America or when traveling abroad. It was a genuine, real conversation with someone in a bar and who was curious about Americans- he actually wanted to know if we were really like the people he had seen on MTV.

Four hours of sleep later, we were up and ready to make a plan. We walked throughout the town again (probably our 4th time because really it was so small), went to the grocery store and got a bag of bread, cheese, a soccer ball and parked it at the beach. After frying in the sun, playing soccer with locals who originally had just tried to rip us off, we took a taxi back to Walvis Bay. Along the way, we stopped at Dune 7- the largest in the area. We were planning on sandboarding but after running into multiple SAS students, they told us to do “the hamster ball” down the dunes. Obviously we had no idea what they were talking about but in the sake of doing the tourist thing, we signed up and were driven out to the top of the dune. We dove into a big bubble (imagine Bubble Boy times 5) and it was filled with water. You get in and then they roll you down the dune- splashing, slipping, flipping, getting air and crashing into each other (Heidi, Peter and I went as a triple) and I don’t know if I can even describe it. It was the weirdest thing I have ever done. Ever but an inventive way to explore the dunes?

We got back on the ship to shower and went back into town for dinner. Forgetting it was a Sunday night, we went to the only open place- Crazy Mama’s- a pizzeria that perfectly hit the spot. Even though it’s technically illegal (we’re not allowed to fraternize with the crew) we were able to sit with two of the food and beverage staff and one of the engineers. Finally I was able to get a lot of the burning questions I had answered. It’s amazing that they leave us clueless on how the ship really works and luckily the men were extremely nice and I actually feel like I have a better understanding on this vessel I call home.

Today we woke up early again and headed to the Lagoon to get on our sand dune tour. Moses, our guide, Heidi, Peter and I set off into the desert in two dune-buggies. We drove 60k out to Sandwich Harbor- not actually a place where sandwiches or any service is found but where the water has moved in 1k in over time and yes due to global warming. Moses knew answers to all of our questions and we learned more about the fabulous Namibian culture and history. We climbed the dunes and overlooked the ocean and all the vegetation. That is really what I love about Namibia- one minute you’re in the ocean, then tall grass, lagoons, sand dunes and mountains. The scenery is constantly changing and it’s all open space. You wouldn’t run into a soul. We went up and over the dunes which is actually really scary. Moses and Heidi rode in the first car and Peter and I were instructed to follow his tracks so we didn’t flip over. You’d just be driving along and then bam- the san dunes drops off and you are suddenly completely vertical. After a few near death experiences, I let Peter drive the rest of the way. Fortunately that meant I just got to admire and look at how the clear, absolute picturesque blue skies hit the sand and it never got old. For 8 hours I looked at the changing dunes and learned how the winds blow from different directions to create the distinct edges. We enjoyed a nicely packed picnic with mango juice, pears, tomatoes and cheese and somehow Peter was able to convince me to try Antelope. I took a tiny bite but won’t be eating that again…

We headed back into Walvis Bay and had to rush back to make dock time. I don’t know if I’ve ever been this tired and sunburned but again I wouldn’t have slept for a moment and missed this. I’ve realized it’s much better to travel independently and not with the SAS trips. Peter and Heidi have been traveling for years and knew how to just wing it and see where the wind took us. Sure we did a few typical tourist things but we branched out and stayed clear of SAS kids when possible and tried to really try it by ourselves. I felt completely safe the entire time and I think the Namibians are some of the nicest people I’ve ever met in my life.

Maybe you’re like me and had never heard of Namibia but that’s what also made it so special. The sand always creates a pristine trail, the air it extremely hot but the ocean will bring you back to normal temperature, the people are welcoming and willing to assist you in any capacity and yes the food is good enough to have a vegetarian eat meat for the first time in almost two years.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Moments In Morocco

Morocco. From the coast of Casablanca to three hours inland in Marrakech- Morocco offered me exactly what Semester At Sea describes in their pamphlets- an eye-opening experience that showed me insights I will carry with me for the rest of my life.

We were delayed a day when the weather took a turn for the worse and kept us outside Gibraltar (or Gibralazar as I seemed to call it) but it was okay. We had a free day at sea with no classes and just anxiety racing through our bodies. Finally we arrived in Casablanca and my trip left at 7:30am. We boarded busses and took the long stroll out of the industrial harbor into the crowded streets of Casablanca, Morocco’s largest city by far. Driving past Rick’s Café and more classic movie scenes, we drove three hours into Marrakech and began our tour. We first walked through what seemed the primary stages of labor with the initial steps of creating shoes, shredding meats and welding tools. I felt like I was walking in the set of Aladin and I was just waiting for the carpets to start flying.

Next we went into the Medina, the city center, and the wall that divides the city and around the tower- the symbol of Marrakech. The city center was bursting with snake charmers, dancers, monkeys, and people yelling at you for food and money while the children begged with their hands out. It was overwhelming to say the least. SAS had warned us about pickpocketings so I’m watching their hands and making sure I had control over my belongings and really that just divided the scene. It made it the whole “us verse them” dichotomy and I hated that. But then again I wanted to be safe so it was just a vicious circle.

We had an authentic lunch at a Moroccan restaurant in the town center and I was of course the only vegetarian at the table. I enjoyed some olives, rice and bread and just smiled and tried not to make a big deal. After lunch we toured temples and tombstones and ended our first night at an unbelievably nice hotel where we had a buffet style dinner full of lamb, fish, beef and chicken…

Day two. We were scheduled for surprise Olympic games and yes we were surprised. We headed into Palm Groves and were told to put on these blue waterproof suits (oh yeah it was pouring) and then we lined up with partners and surprise… we were ATVing! Erika and I jumped on and only did one practice loop before we all lined up and roared off into the mud and dumping rain. I drove first and decided it would be best if we got the dirtiest so I hit every puddle imaginable. We stopped halfway at a Moroccan village where they offered warm water for our frozen hands, hot mint tea (the tea of Morocco) and nan before we zoomed back out into the storm. By the end my face hurt from smiling so hard and to just look out into the open and see endless palm trees and African terrain- I couldn’t believe it. Even though ATVing isn’t really PC in Morocco it was a fantastic way to have fun and explore the city.

After another authentic meat cooked Moroccan lunch, we began our 2 hour camel trek. Camels are huge and make the loudest “oh my gosh I’m dying” noise. I climbed upon Fatto (not the name I chose) and we veered off into native lands with a school and small villages. We stopped for a music performance and more mint tea before heading back into the sunset aboard our camels. Edward, my camel guide, taught me songs I didn’t even understand but as I glanced out into the fading sun, I just kept thinking, “here I am, in Morocco on a camel watching the sunset singing Arabic.” Clearly it was a moment I will remember for the rest of my life.

Edward taught me more than Arabic songs but rather showed me something it could take a lifetime to learn. Edward spoke Arabic, Berber and French- three languages I do not speak. His English consisted of “I do not speak English” just as my French consisted of “Ja’ador formaggio” (I learned how to say I love cheese at lunch). But somewhere between the camel trek and the language barrier we began flirtatiously interacting without words. It was so simple and yet so hard to describe but it was in the smiling, the movements and all that I honestly felt myself feeling attracted to him. I began to see that love is not a language and doesn’t need words but really it is simply a feeling, an emotion and I only felt the tiniest amount but I know it’s real. I’m such a word person- I write for hours and read and try to express myself with these constants and vowels but there are some things that don’t require words or language. Somethings just exist.

We are sailing down the western coast of Africa with a week till Namibia. It’s such a tease to see random bits of land but it keeps me going.