Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Aloha O'ahu!

Woken up at 6:00am, the loud speaker blared a rock and roll tune of “Living In America” as we pulled into the Aloha Tower Port. We were up early to have our face to face inspection with customs and then the day was ours. Bathing suits, tanning lotion, fully charged cell phones (yesss service!)- we got off the ship and onto “The Bus” to get to downtown Honolulu and Waikiki beach. First stop: Starbucks of course and the ABC store- famous in Hawaii and literally on every corner- to get some chocolate covered macadamia nuts (a Hawaiian necessity) and floaties for the water.

The 21+ kids started their morning off at a little tiki lounge restaurant with Mai Tais while myself and 3 others slurped iced coffee. Beach Boy’s greatest hits hummed in the background but we could still hear the crashing waves near by. After breakfast, we anxiously hurried across the street to claim prime real estate on the waterfront. I enjoyed making a myriad of phone calls- everyone started off with “wow I haven’t seen your name on my caller ID in so long!” and just hearing their voices made the perfect day even better.

We laid out, played in the waves, and left the beach by late afternoon with a new golden glow (some a pinkish/red…). Three of my friends decided getting a tattoo would be their next best move. With a local guiding us through the peaceful streets, we came into your standard tattoo parlor and the artist greeted his new clients. While the three of them got inked, Abby and I strolled the streets cracking open oysters searching for pearls, stopping in all the cute beach shops and pretending we could actually afford all the styles and tried to actually wrap our heads around the idea of being back in America. After not being in the US for over 3 months, we still considered everything and everyone foreign. Classic comments such as “oh they speak our language” and “what’s that in US currency?” revealed our embarrassing naïve side. We actually turned down cabs because their high prices couldn’t be bargained (once you get $1 rides in Vietnam- a $10 journey to downtown just doesn’t seem right). For our first US port, Hawaii was quite the exception to the rule. Everyone walks around in bathing suits and no shoes- the stunning heat soaks out all the stress and people are left in complete harmony and peace. Jamming Bob Marley live music promoted on the streets and beautiful, bright hibiscus flowers resting along the sidewalks- I see why people pack it all up and move to such an oasis.

We rode the overcrowded bus back to the ship, showered and took that expensive cab ride to La Cucaracha, an authentic Mexican restaurant that finally filled our dreams of chips, queso and guacamole. The 10 of us took over the back of the room and had to explain why we were so excited to see, smell Mexican cuisine. Not another word was said as the waitress delivered bottomless baskets of chips and margaritas to our starving group. I felt the curse (again) of being under 21- for the last 3 months there have been no restrictions but now we sat at the end of the table secluded from the rest of our friends.

Our dinner concluded and I felt as though I had grown a small nino inside of me but we needed that- comfort food and food that was especially made for us and not 800 passengers. The evening poured into the streets of Waikiki with many tourists and SASers to be found. Some ventured off into local bars while others took walks along the beach and even swam in the Pacific. Our night ended just as family and friends from the mainland called to greet us good morning. Again with these time differences…

Our second and last day in Hawaii started off a little slower but we were off the ship by 10am. A few friends went off hiking but Abby, Anna and I met Gaylen by the bus as she returned from a morning of skydiving over the ocean. We did a similar routine of Starbucks and hit up the beachfront to work on our tans- again. We had lunch at the fabulous Cheeseburger In Paradise- even had yet another hot dog- and did some window shopping along the main drag. By 5pm, we were burned and drained. With an hour till dock time, we boarded the ship and made those last minute phone calls. We had dinner on the ship and went onto deck 7 to watch the sunset. The boys were all in the pool and thought it would be a great idea to throw us all in even though we were fully clothed, had cameras, phones and were grabbing onto dear life as they yanked us and individually dropped us in the pool. Well, fortunately I escaped by running in circles and slipping down the stairs but still got a little wet from the enormous puddles and everyone else that was soaking. The crew was quick to yell at us and began writing the boys up but it was still a great way to end our little Hawaiian vacation.

It was different and unusual to be back in America and have all the privileges and commodities that we left behind so long ago. Having a cell phone was nice but whenever we were on the ship, everyone was on the phone. In line for breakfast, outside at dinner, in the hallways, and all around port- I forgot how nice it is to just be secluded and not have my phone on me at all times. Yet it was so awesome to finally talk to my friends and family. I guess you can’t have it all.

We’ve got 8 days to Guatemala (people seem to forget we are going there) and only 15 days left. I honestly cannot believe it. I can’t believe that after this week I’ll be done with classes and basically school but then just after that I’m done with the program. I’ll be making these last 2 weeks the best and spending every moment soaking up time on the ship with my friends, the beauty surrounding us on the Pacific and of course the shining sun that I truly can never get enough of.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Jetting In Japan

Japan is fast moving, technologically advanced, bursting with culture, thrives off entertainment, consists of the sweetest, most helpful people and of course serves the best sushi I’ve ever had in my life. These past 5 days have been a test of true traveling and by a miracle- we made it.

Our first day was spent in Kobe. It took quite awhile to get off the ship due to our face-to-face inspection, fingerprints and temperature check but when we disembarked, we got on the subway heading for downtown. Right off the bat, we missed our stop and ended up taking the more scenic route before reaching our destination. I’ve never experienced such a language barrier (worse than my post about Morocco…) but I got lost in the chaos and grew to love it. We were on a mission to get our train/bus tickets but finding the bus station was more complicated than anticipated. With my great acting skills, we were able to show locals where we needed to go and boy were we surprised to find out we had walked around for 3 hours and the whole time the station was just outside the subway. Later in the afternoon, we dipped our toes into some Japanese entertainment at an 11 story bowling alley and arcade. Courtney and Anna tried sushi for the first time in their lives and I tried for the first time since breaking the vegetarian lifestyle. Honestly what was I doing not eating sushi? We headed back to the ship and got ready for the night- a bar downtown was throwing a SAS party and a Jamaican club nearby promised that Japanese nightlife we had been awaiting. On our way, of course, we got lost but a very kind Japanese pilot with a huge smile offered to personally walk us all the way there. That’s one thing I’ve really learned in Japan- they totally accommodate and help the tourists out. Back home I get easily annoyed but the people that helped us made our days and traveling so much easier.

The next morning we woke up early and Abby, Anna, Courtney, Gaylen, Amanda, Jessica and I took a train to Kyoto to begin our adventure. We stopped at one of the hundreds of vending machines- they not only offer soda but beer and hot coffee all for just $1. We arrived at the Kyoto Train Station- our home for the next 15 hours- locked up our bags and hopped on the first bus we found. We got off in search for the cherry blossoms that were blooming throughout the city. We wandered into a market where sweet smells filled the air and landed in a park covered with blossoms and people. We bought chocolate covered frozen bananas and sat on a bridge soaking up the sun and people watching around us. It was like farmers market on a hot summer day. Couples were sitting on blankets nibbling on packed picnics, children ran after the waddling ducks and the 7 of us gazed into all the surrounding beauty. When the sun began to set and our stomachs began to rumble, we ventured home to the train station and met our dinner reservations for sushi. More fabulous, extraordinary cuisine- fatty tuna rolls, tofu, salmon- everything we tried was better than the last. We stayed in the restaurant till closing and slowly moved our completely filled bodies outside to wait for our midnight bus. We boarded the double decker by midnight and tried to get cozy for our 7 hour ride to Tokyo. It was a great experience to travel by backpack, spend the entire day outside with no real destination but we needed sleep. However, due to snoring and frequent stops, we never got the much needed REM and before we knew it, the sun was rising and Tokyo was in clear view.

Living out of a train station was rather easy in Japan. The bathrooms were actually luxurious compared to anything I’ve ever seen in the states. The toilet seats are warmed and actually play calming music while you use the facilities, everything is automatic and the water was even safe to brush my teeth with. With some expensive Starbucks coffee in our veins, we began our next mission: find our hostel. First we bought subway day passes- greatest investment because we kept getting lost and taking the wrong routes. Finally we crawled out of the subway and were in Jimbocho. Our hostel was different from previous ones- meaning one shower and bathroom for the entire floor and multiple bunk beds but honestly we weren’t there to sleep. We dropped off our backpacks, found another subway line and decided it would be best if we went to the most magical place in Asia… Tokyo Disneyland. We met a few first timers on the train with Minnie Mouse ears and red polka dot dresses but I think we were more excited than the 2 year olds when the magical castle came into view. Suddenly the lack of sleep didn’t matter and we sprinted to the park riding and viewing every attraction available. I remember my first trip to Disneyland in the 4th grade with my dad- just the two of us- riding Space Mountain, Thunder Railroad, Pirates of the Caribbean, The Haunted Mansion and of course Splash Mountain. It brought me back to being a kid again and it didn’t feel like I was thousands of miles and 18 hours ahead of home. By dusk, the energy was at an all time low but we got more vending machine coffee and took more transfers and subways back to our hostel. The two hour nap might have made me more tired but the thought of sushi and dire hunger fixed that right up. We went to our first conveyor belt sushi restaurant and I honestly cannot say I have ever eaten as well and as cheap. The plates just go around and are arranged by color; you determine the price by the color and just eat away. For less than $10, I had miso soup, more salmon, nari, squid, and the best hand roll prawn salad ever. I think I actually ate 4 but our motto was no judging and so I devoured every last bite. After dinner, we scrambled onto another subway and arrived in Roppongi- home of Tokyo’s infamous nightlife. With the help of a few locals, we found a classy karaoke bar and I made my debut. My opening song, as if I need to really say, was Hilary Duff’s “Wake Up” because it mentions Tokyo. The girls now have the best blackmail of me ever… but singing karaoke was on my list of things to do and why not do it in Tokyo?

Day four- before heading to Yokohama, we strolled along Harajuku Street- the rumored inspiration of Gwen Steffani’s clothing line. I’m beyond impressed with the Japanese fashion- who knew you could mix polka dots, stripes and flannel and still call it style? Tempted by the shopping, we got on a train to Yokohama before we spent anymore money. Yokohama is quite the tourist and shipping/nautical town. Anchors and sailboats fill the atmosphere and the baseball stadium seemed to be the center of attraction. We found the ship (it had sailed from Kobe), dropped off our backpacks and made our way to the Yokohama Bay Stars vs. Giants game (who surprisingly have the same SF Giants colors). The baseball field was much smaller than anything in the states- balls were flying into the stadium and one even hit the row of chairs we were in- sending an uncomfortable vibration and wake up call to pay attention at all times. We were told the fans were more entertaining than the players and the rumor was true. Fans chant, wave obnoxiously large flags, bang sticks and anything together to create loud noise. I supported my new Yokohama Tee but really had no idea who was playing or what was going on. The sun set and I enjoyed yet another hotdog as we celebrated the Bay Stars victory.

Our final day in Japan I spent in Chinatown- ironic but felt necessary. I walked around first with Courtney and Anna but then felt a desire to just sit and be with myself- something not experienced in a long time. I sat out by the pier, people watched, sipped hot coffee and wrote away in my journal. Already exhausted, the sun burned my sleepy eyes but I really began to reflect on these past few months. I never knew time could fly by so fast and it seems that life is the best when it moves that quickly but that just doesn’t seem fair.

We have 9 days till Hawaii and it’s time to buckle down for school. We have all our final projects and tests within these next 2 weeks but for the first time I’m not scared or nervous as I head into finals. I’ve learned more in this semester than any past year of my life. Whether I can be accurately tested with a 100pt scantron on the material… I don’t know. But isn’t learning about taking what you have and applying it? Who needs the facts when I have the experience? As I sit in my cabin about to head to the 7th deck for some sunshine, there is nothing but golden blue waves crashing out my window. There’s comfort in each sway of the ship. For the first time on the voyage, we’re actually heading home- no longer escaping and moving east but rather shifting and heading back. We are 18 hours ahead of CA but we cross the International Dateline tomorrow- we have Easter Sunday twice and even though I can’t spend either of them with my family, I feel like I’m in the perfect place. This ship that has become “home”- just a large cruise vessel that promised exciting adventures, new opportunities and the experience of a lifetime. It has given me really so much more.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

China and All Its Wonder

Ni hao from China! We arrived in Hong Kong just as the fog began to burn off and we had a clear view of the city. Little did we know, we docked attached to a mall- our first sign that China would be much more modern than our previous ports. Heidi, Courtney, Anna, Gaylen, Abby and I got off the ship and headed right to Starbucks- it warmed our bodies that were used to 100* weather and were now dumped into 30* (and of course fulfilled that caffeine addiction I haven’t fed since Spain…)

Hong Kong was full of bright lights, excessively large billboards, bustling cars and more people than the tiny sidewalks could hold. We headed into one of the local parks and hiked up to get a better view. At the bottom, we hailed a cab to the women’s market- somewhere that promised those cheap, fake purses we’ve been dying to find. After two hours of bargaining and literally being pulled into local shops, we were full on gadgets and souvenirs but starving for some real cuisine. Walking through the streets reminded me of strolling through San Francisco or really any big city- flashing lights offering hourly hotels, D&G, Coach, True Religions- any brand, any style, Hong Kong had it. With this big city feeling, we ditched the authentic Chinese food and landed in a Pizza Hut. Now in the states, Pizza Hut is fast food but in China (and India…) Pizza Hut is a sit down, low lit, wine pouring venue that offered some of the classiest pizza I’ve ever eaten. After lunch, we toured more of the city and headed back to the ship to drop off our bags and freshen up before heading out for happy hour- a tradition highly participated in by most locals.

The Rugby Seven Series was in town and the 3rd and final game of Fiji vs. South Africa was on at Bulldog- a sort of dive bar yet had expensive drinks. Not understanding anything about the sport, we didn’t last long before heading back to the dock to watch the light show. Hong Kong is sort of like an island and on the opposite side, when the sky turns pitch, the city lights explode and lazars shoot out. We took a small ferry to the other side of the island just as the light show was ending and made our way to Lan Kwai Fong, a street right outside the rugby stadium. The street was bursting with fans decked in costume (everything from Ronald McDonald to 3 Men in a Tub) and SAS students everywhere. It was exactly what I picture Mardi Gras like- dancing, signing, flashing lights, yelling, cheering, making new friends all along one street. We headed back to catch the last ferry but before entering the closed mall to get on the ship, we ran into the South African rugby players outside the local McCafe (aka a fancy McDonalds). Full of some unknown confidence, I walked over and introduced myself to 5 of the players. Courtney, Abby, Gaylen and I got a crash course in how the sport works, how Paul, one of the players, had broken all his ribs and was thus on crutches, how they get to travel around the world and how they really don’t like Americans- surprisingly they were the first group of people I’ve met abroad that openly told us that. After treating them like celebrities and asking more questions that needed, we headed back onto the ship, packed, and 2 hours later met in the Union for our trip to Beijing.

Running on no sleep, Anna, Abby and I headed on our SAS trip- we flew from Hong Kong to Beijing and made our first stop at a traditional Chinese restaurant for lunch. Buffet style with endless noodles and tea, we filled up and walked out in the cold (30*) and into the Summer Palace. Michael- the sweetest, most silly guide I’ve had, led our group of 50 onto a dragon boat and across the lake to walk around the Palace. The Palace was beautiful, set in cheery blossom trees and ornate red paintings along the walls. As we strolled along the waterfront, we felt the warmth of springtime beaming from the gardens surrounding the Palace even though we were shivering in the cold. We got on the bus to our hotel just as my fingers were turning blue and numb. Anna, Abby and I shared a room by rearranging the queen sized beds by pushing them together and removing the nightstand that almost seemed glued to the wall. We had a quick moment to freshen up and then met back in the lobby to head out for our famous Beijing duck dinner. We actually watched them skin and cook a duck- cut it into little pieces, put on a small plate and served upon our ‘Lazy Susan; (which is by far one of the greatest inventions and are at every restaurant in Beijing). Needless to say, the Lazy Susan was spun multiple times but the fresh duck was passed. We returned to the hotel, exhausted, and crashed our heads onto our pillows made of sand (Chinese tradition but rather uncomfortable…)

Apparently there were two breakfast restaurants within the hotel (Chinese and American style) but we didn’t know this; however, it clearly explains why breakfast was bigger than dinner and offered multiple meats, noodles and fried rice. We got on the bus and began our two hour drive to… The Great Wall of China!!!!! I have wanted to visit the GW (my new, unoriginal nickname) for as long as I can remember. It just seemed like such an unreal landmark and something that I absolutely needed to see to believe. Finally when we arrived at the Mutianyu section, the sky was dark, cloudy and the wind blew quite the chill factor. We bought much needed gloves and panda hats as we began our hike up the wall. When we reached the top (which seemed like it would never come), it was like standing on top of the world. Looking in every direction and seeing this road extend far beyond eyesight. 4,000 miles and yet every direction looked different. Every time I walked a little more, I could turn around and have a whole new view of China. As we reached one of the towers to sit and enjoy a picnic lunch, snowflakes began to fall and the trees around us turned into a Christmas setting. It was one of those moments- such clarity, such freedom, fresh air and extreme happiness. I even got to fly a kite (yay Theta) and meet more Americans who had traveled the distance to experience the moment. We stayed on the GW for almost 4 hours but truly I could have stayed more.

We took the bus back into Beijing and stopped at the Bird’s Nest and Water Cube- China definitely still have the Olympics fever. Unfortunately the both sites were closing when we got there so we weren’t able to go inside but I still freaked knowing Michael Phelps had stood right there and the entire atmosphere was inspiring. Such a small, congested area was packed only months ago while so many records were broken and so many dreams came true. We returned to the hotel for a free evening so a group of us girls headed to the infamous Pearl Market- a trap for tourists and their wallets. However, my bargaining skills are at an all time high but it is safe to say if you have a need or want for designer (fake) purses or wallets- I’m your girl.

Our third day was filled with multiple tours and traveling throughout Beijing. We visited the symbol of Beijing (the Tianamen Square/Forbidden Palace), had another yummy, authentic Chinese meal (with the fabulous Lazy Susans), took a traditional tea class and learned how to actually drink/sip your tea and perform the proper smelling/tasting etiquette, and then wondered upon one of the most magical sub-cities I’ve ever seen. We got on trishaws- a bicycle that pulls a buggy, and toured the tiny town of Houhai. Our guide even let me ride the bike but after a few near crashes, I returned to the buggy with Abby. We rode through the city as if we were ghosts and no one could see us; children played in the streets, men came home from work, people rode bicycles up and down the narrow lanes, and there were endless small coffee shops that looked straight out of a fairytale book. We stopped at a home and were able to go inside and see an artist paint different Chinese characters on the ground and make cutouts of Chinese landmarks. Unable to speak the same language, we were all still able to admire and enjoy his work. The Chinese characters are so intricate and detailed; each line, swirl and stroke represents something different and contains more value. After a Chinese dinner at a fish restaurant, we ended our night at a typical Chinese acrobatic show. I’m not even sure how to accurately describe what we saw (which is why I took video) but let’s just say there were life sized hamster ball cages with men jumping rope on them as they rotated, 12 women riding 1 bike, a man balancing on a see-saw board with two women hanging on top of him with another man on top of them balancing on a different see-saw and catching cups on his head as another man below threw them up and finally one man lifting two smaller men with his legs- literally using one leg to lift an entire human around. Hopefully I can show you the footage to give you a better understanding of these impossible movements that were somehow made possible.

Our last day in Beijing began at the Temple of Heaven- an outdoor park that brings in the older generations. All throughout the park were the seniors performing martial arts, ballroom dancing, singing, playing harmonicas and even hacky-sack. It is apparently their morning rituals- they all get up and spend the morning together as community. Seems like the best way to stay young, hang out with your friends and dance with your partner. We headed back to Pearl Market and this time I bought myself the greatest gift (something I have needed much earlier on this voyage) a warm, multi use North Face raincoat/fleece. I’ve never owned a raincoat and usually just suffer in the cold but for such a low bargaining price it became the best knockoff purchase yet. We made our last stop at the Lama Temple, home of the biggest Buddha in Beijing, and also happens to be a monastery. The air was filled with incense as others prayed to the various Buddha statues and lit 3 sticks to properly show respect. We arrived at the Beijing airport and went through the strictest security I’ve ever seen- they took my toothpaste… and boarded our 2 hour flight to Shanghai.

The ship had sailed for 2 days from Hong Kong while we were off traveling so it was exciting to see the MV Explorer radiate Christmas lights and rest in the harbor as the backdrop of the city let off an inviting glow. We were on the ship by 9:30pm, unpacked, changed and off by 10:00 to experience the Shanghai nightlife.

With only one day in Shanghai and the skies completely overcast, we set off by foot and saw as much of the city as possible. Walking through back roads, passing by some of the largest skyscrapers in the world (Shanghai holds the record for both 3rd and 4th place), eating extremely spicy (so hot my eyes were watering, face beat red and actually sweating) Chinese cuisine and finally returning back to the ship to watch us pull out of port and begin sailing to Japan.

China was truly an extraordinary 6 days. Something about not being able to read any of the signs made me really feel like I was traveling- like I was far away in a whole new world. It was nice to be in cold weather and big cities. Visiting three major cities was actually so fortunate because I really got to see different cultures and norms- especially since Hong Kong is a SAR (special admin region) and using the term ‘mainland China’ had never been in my vocabulary. As I said, hiking along the GW was something unforgettable and definitely a highlight of my entire SAS voyage.

I can’t believe we are already heading into Japan- our last stop before a 9 day leg into Hawaii. How is it already April? I just had to register for my senior year classes and it was like taking a blow to the heart- only one more year in Boulder? Only one more month of SAS? Our lives have been moving unbelievably fast- port for 5 days, at sea for 2, 6 days at port, and 2 at sea and so on. I just can’t think about it but rather live it. Unfortunately time is going to pass either way…