Ni hao from China! We arrived in Hong Kong just as the fog began to burn off and we had a clear view of the city. Little did we know, we docked attached to a mall- our first sign that China would be much more modern than our previous ports. Heidi, Courtney, Anna, Gaylen, Abby and I got off the ship and headed right to Starbucks- it warmed our bodies that were used to 100* weather and were now dumped into 30* (and of course fulfilled that caffeine addiction I haven’t fed since Spain…)
Hong Kong was full of bright lights, excessively large billboards, bustling cars and more people than the tiny sidewalks could hold. We headed into one of the local parks and hiked up to get a better view. At the bottom, we hailed a cab to the women’s market- somewhere that promised those cheap, fake purses we’ve been dying to find. After two hours of bargaining and literally being pulled into local shops, we were full on gadgets and souvenirs but starving for some real cuisine. Walking through the streets reminded me of strolling through San Francisco or really any big city- flashing lights offering hourly hotels, D&G, Coach, True Religions- any brand, any style, Hong Kong had it. With this big city feeling, we ditched the authentic Chinese food and landed in a Pizza Hut. Now in the states, Pizza Hut is fast food but in China (and India…) Pizza Hut is a sit down, low lit, wine pouring venue that offered some of the classiest pizza I’ve ever eaten. After lunch, we toured more of the city and headed back to the ship to drop off our bags and freshen up before heading out for happy hour- a tradition highly participated in by most locals.
The Rugby Seven Series was in town and the 3rd and final game of Fiji vs. South Africa was on at Bulldog- a sort of dive bar yet had expensive drinks. Not understanding anything about the sport, we didn’t last long before heading back to the dock to watch the light show. Hong Kong is sort of like an island and on the opposite side, when the sky turns pitch, the city lights explode and lazars shoot out. We took a small ferry to the other side of the island just as the light show was ending and made our way to Lan Kwai Fong, a street right outside the rugby stadium. The street was bursting with fans decked in costume (everything from Ronald McDonald to 3 Men in a Tub) and SAS students everywhere. It was exactly what I picture Mardi Gras like- dancing, signing, flashing lights, yelling, cheering, making new friends all along one street. We headed back to catch the last ferry but before entering the closed mall to get on the ship, we ran into the South African rugby players outside the local McCafe (aka a fancy McDonalds). Full of some unknown confidence, I walked over and introduced myself to 5 of the players. Courtney, Abby, Gaylen and I got a crash course in how the sport works, how Paul, one of the players, had broken all his ribs and was thus on crutches, how they get to travel around the world and how they really don’t like Americans- surprisingly they were the first group of people I’ve met abroad that openly told us that. After treating them like celebrities and asking more questions that needed, we headed back onto the ship, packed, and 2 hours later met in the Union for our trip to Beijing.
Running on no sleep, Anna, Abby and I headed on our SAS trip- we flew from Hong Kong to Beijing and made our first stop at a traditional Chinese restaurant for lunch. Buffet style with endless noodles and tea, we filled up and walked out in the cold (30*) and into the Summer Palace. Michael- the sweetest, most silly guide I’ve had, led our group of 50 onto a dragon boat and across the lake to walk around the Palace. The Palace was beautiful, set in cheery blossom trees and ornate red paintings along the walls. As we strolled along the waterfront, we felt the warmth of springtime beaming from the gardens surrounding the Palace even though we were shivering in the cold. We got on the bus to our hotel just as my fingers were turning blue and numb. Anna, Abby and I shared a room by rearranging the queen sized beds by pushing them together and removing the nightstand that almost seemed glued to the wall. We had a quick moment to freshen up and then met back in the lobby to head out for our famous Beijing duck dinner. We actually watched them skin and cook a duck- cut it into little pieces, put on a small plate and served upon our ‘Lazy Susan; (which is by far one of the greatest inventions and are at every restaurant in Beijing). Needless to say, the Lazy Susan was spun multiple times but the fresh duck was passed. We returned to the hotel, exhausted, and crashed our heads onto our pillows made of sand (Chinese tradition but rather uncomfortable…)
Apparently there were two breakfast restaurants within the hotel (Chinese and American style) but we didn’t know this; however, it clearly explains why breakfast was bigger than dinner and offered multiple meats, noodles and fried rice. We got on the bus and began our two hour drive to… The Great Wall of China!!!!! I have wanted to visit the GW (my new, unoriginal nickname) for as long as I can remember. It just seemed like such an unreal landmark and something that I absolutely needed to see to believe. Finally when we arrived at the Mutianyu section, the sky was dark, cloudy and the wind blew quite the chill factor. We bought much needed gloves and panda hats as we began our hike up the wall. When we reached the top (which seemed like it would never come), it was like standing on top of the world. Looking in every direction and seeing this road extend far beyond eyesight. 4,000 miles and yet every direction looked different. Every time I walked a little more, I could turn around and have a whole new view of China. As we reached one of the towers to sit and enjoy a picnic lunch, snowflakes began to fall and the trees around us turned into a Christmas setting. It was one of those moments- such clarity, such freedom, fresh air and extreme happiness. I even got to fly a kite (yay Theta) and meet more Americans who had traveled the distance to experience the moment. We stayed on the GW for almost 4 hours but truly I could have stayed more.
We took the bus back into Beijing and stopped at the Bird’s Nest and Water Cube- China definitely still have the Olympics fever. Unfortunately the both sites were closing when we got there so we weren’t able to go inside but I still freaked knowing Michael Phelps had stood right there and the entire atmosphere was inspiring. Such a small, congested area was packed only months ago while so many records were broken and so many dreams came true. We returned to the hotel for a free evening so a group of us girls headed to the infamous Pearl Market- a trap for tourists and their wallets. However, my bargaining skills are at an all time high but it is safe to say if you have a need or want for designer (fake) purses or wallets- I’m your girl.
Our third day was filled with multiple tours and traveling throughout Beijing. We visited the symbol of Beijing (the Tianamen Square/Forbidden Palace), had another yummy, authentic Chinese meal (with the fabulous Lazy Susans), took a traditional tea class and learned how to actually drink/sip your tea and perform the proper smelling/tasting etiquette, and then wondered upon one of the most magical sub-cities I’ve ever seen. We got on trishaws- a bicycle that pulls a buggy, and toured the tiny town of Houhai. Our guide even let me ride the bike but after a few near crashes, I returned to the buggy with Abby. We rode through the city as if we were ghosts and no one could see us; children played in the streets, men came home from work, people rode bicycles up and down the narrow lanes, and there were endless small coffee shops that looked straight out of a fairytale book. We stopped at a home and were able to go inside and see an artist paint different Chinese characters on the ground and make cutouts of Chinese landmarks. Unable to speak the same language, we were all still able to admire and enjoy his work. The Chinese characters are so intricate and detailed; each line, swirl and stroke represents something different and contains more value. After a Chinese dinner at a fish restaurant, we ended our night at a typical Chinese acrobatic show. I’m not even sure how to accurately describe what we saw (which is why I took video) but let’s just say there were life sized hamster ball cages with men jumping rope on them as they rotated, 12 women riding 1 bike, a man balancing on a see-saw board with two women hanging on top of him with another man on top of them balancing on a different see-saw and catching cups on his head as another man below threw them up and finally one man lifting two smaller men with his legs- literally using one leg to lift an entire human around. Hopefully I can show you the footage to give you a better understanding of these impossible movements that were somehow made possible.
Our last day in Beijing began at the Temple of Heaven- an outdoor park that brings in the older generations. All throughout the park were the seniors performing martial arts, ballroom dancing, singing, playing harmonicas and even hacky-sack. It is apparently their morning rituals- they all get up and spend the morning together as community. Seems like the best way to stay young, hang out with your friends and dance with your partner. We headed back to Pearl Market and this time I bought myself the greatest gift (something I have needed much earlier on this voyage) a warm, multi use North Face raincoat/fleece. I’ve never owned a raincoat and usually just suffer in the cold but for such a low bargaining price it became the best knockoff purchase yet. We made our last stop at the Lama Temple, home of the biggest Buddha in Beijing, and also happens to be a monastery. The air was filled with incense as others prayed to the various Buddha statues and lit 3 sticks to properly show respect. We arrived at the Beijing airport and went through the strictest security I’ve ever seen- they took my toothpaste… and boarded our 2 hour flight to Shanghai.
The ship had sailed for 2 days from Hong Kong while we were off traveling so it was exciting to see the MV Explorer radiate Christmas lights and rest in the harbor as the backdrop of the city let off an inviting glow. We were on the ship by 9:30pm, unpacked, changed and off by 10:00 to experience the Shanghai nightlife.
With only one day in Shanghai and the skies completely overcast, we set off by foot and saw as much of the city as possible. Walking through back roads, passing by some of the largest skyscrapers in the world (Shanghai holds the record for both 3rd and 4th place), eating extremely spicy (so hot my eyes were watering, face beat red and actually sweating) Chinese cuisine and finally returning back to the ship to watch us pull out of port and begin sailing to Japan.
China was truly an extraordinary 6 days. Something about not being able to read any of the signs made me really feel like I was traveling- like I was far away in a whole new world. It was nice to be in cold weather and big cities. Visiting three major cities was actually so fortunate because I really got to see different cultures and norms- especially since Hong Kong is a SAR (special admin region) and using the term ‘mainland China’ had never been in my vocabulary. As I said, hiking along the GW was something unforgettable and definitely a highlight of my entire SAS voyage.
I can’t believe we are already heading into Japan- our last stop before a 9 day leg into Hawaii. How is it already April? I just had to register for my senior year classes and it was like taking a blow to the heart- only one more year in Boulder? Only one more month of SAS? Our lives have been moving unbelievably fast- port for 5 days, at sea for 2, 6 days at port, and 2 at sea and so on. I just can’t think about it but rather live it. Unfortunately time is going to pass either way…
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